Touring Cork

County Cork is Ireland’s largest county. In the east are valley farms; in the west the land is mountainous and boggy. But it is the long scenic coastline indented with peninsulas, bays, and beaches that is the star of county Cork.

In the east, Youghal, on the west bank of the Blackwater estuary on Cork’s border with Waterford county, is an Irish heritage town, noted for its lace and pottery. At the heritage centre is a town trail brochure. The well-preserved medieval town walls were constructed in the 13th century and extended in the 17th century. Three of the original 13 towers remain. The four storey Clock Gate, built in 1777 to replace the medieval Trinity Gate, sits astride the town’s main street. It once served as the town gaol. 15th century Tynte’s Castle is a fortified tower. The remains of medieval Watergate (Cromwell’s Arch) lead from the quayside into the town.

Myrtle Grove is a 15th century house once belonging to Sir Walter Raleigh. Also in the town are the remains of 14th century St John’s priory, the 18th century Dutch Red House, and 1610 alms houses. St Mary’s collegiate church dates from the 13th century and has been restored. In the church is a collection of effigies and grave slabs and a monument to the first Earl of Cork.

The Old Midleton Distillery in the town of Midleton traces, in a one-hour tour, the history of Irish whiskey. Meals are offered in their restaurant. The former monastery town of 1180 is a busy shopping center. Cloyne, just south of Midleton, is a cathedral town. A 10th century round tower is open to anyone wanting to climb it. Garryvoie, south of Midleton is a holiday resort with a beach.

Just south of Carrigtwohill, on the Youghal-Cork road, is Barryscourt castle, a national monument, partly in ruins. Nearby Fota Wildlife Park and Arboretum (on an island in Cork harbour) presents multi media programs in the house as well as a self guided leaflet to explore the regency style house, a shop, and a tearoom. The gardens include an orangery, walled gardens, arboretum, a fernery, and a collection of roses. At Glounthane is Ashbourne House and Gardens. It’s a plantsman’s garden with a rockery and rhododendrons.

Cobh, on Great Island in Cork harbour, was the main emigration port after the great famine of 1845. The history of emigration and the maritime heritage are told at the Queenstown (Cobh’s former name) Story, housed in a Victorian railway station. Walking tours of the town take place at 11am from the front of the Commodore hotel and last 90 minutes.


The Cobh Museum, in a church on High road by the tourist office, overlooks the harbour. It has displays on Cobh’s social and cultural history. Harbour cruises go from Kennedy pier. Pugin designed the St Colman’s cathedral constructed 1868-1915. There is a carillon with 47 bells, marble columns, and mosaic floors.

With over 160,000 people, Cork City, with a large natural harbour, is Ireland’s third largest city. Built on drained marshland with the river Lee flowing through the city means there are many bridges. Cork has much architecture of note: on Grande Parade street are many 18th century bow front buildings; the city hall; a half timbered brewery; the Red Abbey, a tower of a 1300 Augustinian building; and the Cork Butter Museum, in the city centre at the Shandon craft centre, where the heritage of dairying and the butter exchange in three galleries.

The Cork City jail is a 19th century restored prison with exhibitions, a museum, and an AV presentation on the city. In Fitzgerald Park is the Cork public museum giving Cork’s history from prehistoric times. Churches of note include St Fin Barre’s cathedral built in 1865 and designed by William Burges in the French gothic style. The three spired church has 18 stained glass windows. St Anne’s Anglican church has a carillon of eight bells in the church tower.

There are many attractions a short drive from Cork. Near Glanmire is historic 1602 Riverstown house with fine plasterwork. Dunkathel House has a staircase of note and a collection of watercolours, period furniture, Adam fireplaces, gilt mirrors, and an 1880 barrel organ. A short distance west of Cork on the N22 is the village of Ovens and the Kilcrea Franciscan friary. North of Cork is the town of Blarney, the site of Blarney castle with 1000 acres of woodland, open for walks. Waterloo round tower, a folly, is just outside the town.

Conna, near Waterford’s border and the town of Fermoy, is home to 16th century Conna Castle on a rock overlooking the river Bride. Fermoy on the N72 northeast of Cork is the site of the Labbacalle wedge tomb, one of the biggest in the country. It’s bounded by massive standing stones. Castlelyons, on the N8 northeast of Cork is of historic importance with both religious and secular ruins. These include Barrymore castle ruined by a fire, a 14th century Carmelite friary, and a church of Ireland church.

Mallow is a busy market town on the Blackwater river. The remains of Mallow Castle date from the 12th century. The ruins of St Anne’s church are from the late 13th century. 18th century Longueville House, in an estate in the Blackwater river valley, is a listed heritage manor turned into a hotel and restaurant. Nano Nagle Centre between Mallow and Fermoy near Ballygriffin is a wildlife sanctuary by the river. The Island Wedge Tomb is a long rectangular burial chamber with a partly roofed gallery and U shaped cairn. North of Mallow, the town of Charleville sits on the border with county Limerick. To the west on the R515 are the remains of 15/16th century Kilbolane Castle near Milford village.

East of Mallow is the well kept village of Castletownroche. Two miles from Castletownroche, Annes Grove gardens surround an 18th century house. In the grounds are an old mill, rhododendrons, a woodland garden, magnolias, limestone cliff paths, and riverside walks. Glanworth, on the banks of the river Funshion, has a 1600 stone bridge. There are a number of religious and secular ruins in the area. Kanturk is a market town with three bridges from the 18th and 19th centuries. 1601 Kanturk Castle, never completed, has massive towers and fireplaces. The Rural Farm Museum has a collection of old farm buildings and equipment, ancient stones, heritage and nature trails, gardens, and a coffee shop.

At Macroom the only remains of Macroom Castle are a stone gateway to the castle grounds. There’s also a riverside park. The Bealick Mill Heritage and Exhibition Centre is housed in the old 19th century corn mill. 16th century Carrigaphooca Castle sits on a rock outcrop. Ballymakeera and Ballyvourney on the N22 are two villages sharing a scenic setting of forest and mountain. Between the two villages is a bridge leading to the holy well and burial mound of St. Gobnait.

Near the Shehy mountains in western Cork, Lake Gougaunebarra sits in 1000 acres of the wild and beautiful scenery of a forest park, where the river Lee rises. A tiny island in the lake connected to the shore by a causeway is the spot where St. Finbarr, patron saint of Cork, founded his early Christian monastery.

Millstreet, at the foot of the Claragh mountains, is an area rich in archaeological heritage. Millstreet Museum has a tourist information centre offering guided town tours, and a display on the history of the area. Nearby is Millstreet Country Park with 500 acres of amenities that include an arboretum, gardens, lakes, waterfalls, walks, a picnic area, a visitor centre, wetlands and a restaurant and shop. Transport is available for a one hour park tour.

Drishane Castle is a tower house of 1450 with a modern top. Near Farnanes is the Muskerry Farm Museum and Heritage Centre with an extensive collection of farm machinery and tools. At Liscarroll are the remains of 13th century Liscarroll castle.

Heading south-west from the city of Cork along the N71 leads to the town of Bandon, where the West Cork Heritage Centre in a former church on North Main Street houses some of the former town walls and an exhibition with artefacts. The Bandon Craft Centre on Bridge Street has high quality china, glass, and furniture.

Kinsale, on the coast is an Irish heritage town and tidy town winner. Streets are narrow and winding. Desmond castle in Kinsale is a National Historic Monument housing the International Museum of wine. The Courthouse in Market Square was built in 1600 and has a museum. Charles Fort was built by Charles II for military use. An AV presentation tells the story. It’s at Summer Cove a short distance from the town. Just opposite is James Fort overlooking the small harbour.

Timoleague sits on the Argideen estuary and is the site of Timoleague Franciscan abbey of 1312 at the head of the sea inlet. It was one of Ireland’s largest.

Clonakilty, a town of 3500, is located on a coastal bay on the N71. It’s a Tidy Towns winner and an International Nations in Bloom winner. Narrow streets and lanes lead to squares; mills, brewery buildings, warehouses, towers, and old buildings give a sense of history. The West Cork Regional Museum fills in the details. A town historical walk is available. A mile from Clonakilty is Lios na gCon, a reconstructed ringfort and dwelling on its original site. An award winning beach, Inchydoney, is close to the town.

East of Clonakilty, Lisselan Estate Gardens show off their rhododendrons and shrubs and offer woodland walks and bridges over the river Argideen. Dunmanway, northwest of Clonakilty and east of Bantry, is the site of four storey Ballynacarriga Castle with some unusual features. At Castlfreke is a 30-foot high memorial celtic style cross, erected in 1902.

At Rosscarbery are the ruins of a four-storey house, Coppingers Court. St Fachtna’s cathedral in the village dates from the 12th century with 17th century restorations. Drombeg stone circle, dated BC150, is one of 60 stone circles in the western part of the county. Its 14 stones make a 30-foot in diameter circle. Glandore, south-west of Clonakilty, sits on a harbour. Shanagarry, overlooking Ballycotton Bay, is a leading pottery and craft centre. The original home of William Penn who founded the state of Pennsylvania in the US is located in the town.

Castletownshend’s pier looks over the Castle Haven estuary. The Liss Ard Foundation Gardens is an ecological landscape garden of 40 acres with woodlands, wildflower meadows, lakes, and streams. It’s signed from the Skibbereen roundabout.

Skibbereen, on the River Illen, is a busy market town. It has an old abbey cemetery. The Skibbereen Heritage Centre, in the town’s old gasworks building on Upper Bridge Street, tells about the famine using an AV presentation. It’s also the site of the Lough Hyne Nature Reserve. The visitor centre fills in the details about the marine lake and nature reserve with its salt-water marine lake and archaeology trail. Historical walking tours start from the centre.

South of the town on the way to Baltimore are the informal 11 acres of Creagh Gardens, home to fuchsias, camellias, rhododendrons, and magnolias. Baltimore, south of Skibbereen on the very tip of the land, has an attractive harbour with a ferry service for Sherkin and Cape Clear islands.

On Cape Clear Island is the Cape Clear Heritage Centre in a restored schoolhouse. It exhibits local folk, farm, and maritime items that tell of island life. The island is a bird sanctuary. On Sherkin Island are the ruins of a 1460 Franciscan friary.

Continuing westward on the N71 and turning toward Schull, a scenic road leads through Gollen and its harbour to Crookhaven with many bronze age field monuments in the hills. Crookhaven was the site of Marconi’s first attempt at radioing across the Atlantic. Barleycove, close to Mizen Head, is a holiday spot with a beach and sand dunes.

Continuing down the Mizen peninsula leads to Mizen Head, the most southerly point of land in Ireland. The Mizen Visitor Centre is in the former lighthouse keeper’s house. The lighthouse is linked to the mainland by 99 steps down a cliff, then by a suspension footbridge over a gorge.

At Durrus, sighted at the head of Dunmaus Bay, are the Kilravock Gardens, two windswept terraced acres. Kilcrohane sits on the long peninsula between Bantry Bay and Dunmanus Bay. The Seaside garden has rare southern hemisphere plants and has won awards.

Bantry is a major coastal town in west Cork with historical conections. The 1796 French Armada Centre in the grounds of Bantry House tells the story of the failed French effort to invade Ireland. The house was built in 1740 and houses a collection of tapestries, furniture, and art treasures. There are terraced Italianate gardens. Continuing along the N71 coast road north of Bantry leads to Glengarriff with its mild climate and original oak forest. Here is the Glengarriff Bamboo Park with 30 different species of bamboo and 12 of palm trees. Nearby, by boat trip, are the Ilnacullin (Garinish Island) gardens with their Italian style garden and wild garden.

The Beara peninsula is Cork county’s most western land, characterized by sand and mountain. It was once a busy copper mining area. A round trip of the peninsula leads around the perimeter with only two major roads bisecting the interior. One is the Healy Pass road that passes Glanmore lake; it’s steep and full of hairpin turns. Here is Sugarloaf mountain and the Slieve Miskish mountains. Villages on the peninsula are small. Dursey island at the tip of the peninsula can be reached by cable car. At Dunboy woods are the remains of O’Sullivan Bere castle and 19th century Dunboy castle. Castletownbere is a fishing port. Across from the town is Bear (Bere) Island, reached by ferry. It’s seven by three miles in size. There’s a Martello tower, an old lighthouse, the Batteries, and a walking and cycling route to tempt the visitor.